Home Assessment Tips
NAVIGATING THIS RESOURCE
Creating a wildfire-resilient property requires addressing the Home Ignition Zone (HIZ)—which is the house and the immediate surrounding area, usually up to 100 feet and occasionally up to 200 feet, where wildfire prevention efforts are concentrated. Reducing the likelihood of structural ignition from radiant heat, direct flame contact, and—most importantly—wind-blown embers is the aim.
Mitigating risk within the HIZ requires a three-part approach: Home Hardening (using fire-resistant building materials and features), Defensible Space (establishing a buffer by clearing or altering fuels and creating non-combustible zones, especially within the first 5 feet of the structure, to give the home and firefighters a survival advantage), and Firewise Landscaping (strategically choosing and maintaining low-flammability vegetation). These concepts should be viewed as a unified "systems approach," requiring all parts to work together for success rather than being treated as three separate ideas.
This resource is a working document, and information may be updated periodically. Access recommendations directly from the links below or simply scroll down the page for tips.
Roof Assembly: Roofs | Solar Panels | Skylights | Chimneys | Gutters | Soffits and Eaves | Soffit Vents
Siding and Attachments: Exterior Walls | Wall Vents | Windows | Doors and Garages | Decks, Lanai and Patio Covers | Fences and Gates
Other Concerns: Driveways and Access Roads | Home Site and Yard | Water Supply | Address | Inside the Home | Backup Power and Generators
HOME IGNITION ZONE (HIZ)
What is the Home Ignition Zone?
The home ignition zone (HIZ) consists of your house and its immediate surroundings. Managing your HIZ is critical to reducing wildfire risk. Each of the three home ignition zones has a different purpose. Therefore, we must manage the fuel loads accordingly to reduce the risk of ember ignition, radiant heat, and direct flame. There are two main points to the HIZ concept:
Start with the mitigation that is nearest to the house—that is, the house itself—and work your way out!
Working on home materials and the surrounding area in the 0-5’ zone (Zone 0) has the greatest impact!
Credit source: NFPA
Immediate Area or Zone 0 (0-5 feet)
Immediate Area Considerations: The first 5 feet adjacent to your house is the most critical area and should be cleared of any and all combustible vegetation or materials. Start mitigation efforts at the home itself, then move outward.
Roofs and Gutters: Clean roofs, gutters, and roof valleys of all debris (leaves, pine needles, etc.). Repair or replace any loose or missing shingles or tiles to prevent ember entry.
Vents and Openings: Install 1/8-inch metal mesh screening on all attic, foundation, and eave vents to block embers. Check and repair any damaged or loose window screens and broken windows.
Decks and Patios: Screen in areas below decks and patios to prevent the accumulation of debris and flammable materials. Do not store anything combustible underneath them.
Immediate Home Perimeter: Remove any flammable materials from the area directly next to the house walls. This includes combustible mulch, dry plants, leaves, and firewood piles.
Gaps and Cracks: Seal any gaps or cracks in the exterior of your home, including the roof assembly, to prevent embers from getting inside.
Intermediate Area or Zone 1 (5-30 feet)
Intermediate Area Considerations: Employ firewise landscaping and hardscaping techniques to create breaks that slow a fire's spread by increasing the space between plants, trees, and your home.
Reduce Ground Fuels: Keep grasses mowed to four inches or less, and clear all vegetation from underneath large propane tanks.
Break Up Vegetation: Create fuel breaks using driveways, paths, patios, and decks to slow a fire's spread. Limit trees and shrubs to small clusters to prevent a continuous path for fire.
Eliminate Ladder Fuels (view example picture): Prune trees to a height of six to ten feet from the ground to prevent a surface fire from climbing into the crowns. For shorter trees, don't prune more than one-third of the total height.
Space Out Trees: Ensure there is at least ten feet of space between mature tree canopies and any structures. Maintain a minimum of eighteen feet between tree crowns, increasing that distance on sloped terrain.*
Strategic Tree Placement: Plan the placement of new trees so their mature canopies will be no closer than ten feet to the edge of your home or other structures.
Credit Source: HWMO
Extended Area or Zone 2 (30-100+ feet)
Extended Area Considerations: The goal here is not to eliminate fire, but instead, to reduce dense vegetation to interrupt fire’s path and keep flames smaller and on the ground.
Clear Out Dead Material: Remove dead plants, trees, and heavy accumulations of leaves or pine needles from your yard.
Separate Trees: Remove any small conifers or other vegetation growing between mature trees to prevent fire from spreading between them.
Protect Outbuildings: Clear all vegetation away from sheds, storage buildings, and other structures on your property.
Trees 30 to 60 feet from the home should have at least 12 feet between canopy tops.*
Trees 60 to 100 feet from the home should have at least 6 feet between the canopy tops.*
Credit source: HWMO with plant images from NTBG
Tree Spacing
Credit source: NFPA
The distances listed above for crown spacing are suggested based on NFPA 1144. However, the crown spacing needed to reduce/prevent crown fire potential could be significantly greater due to slope, the species of trees involved and other site specific conditions. Check with your local forestry professional to get advice on what is appropriate for your property.
HOME HARDENING
What is a Hardened Home?
Construction materials and the quality of the defensible space surrounding it are what give a home the best chance to survive a wildland fire. Wildland fire embers will identify the weak spot in your home's fire safety plan and take advantage of a little, unnoticed, or seemingly unimportant detail. However, there are measures you can take to safeguard your home from wildland fire. While you may not be able to accomplish all the measures listed below, each one will increase your home’s, and possibly your family’s, safety and survival during a wildland fire.
Roofs
Firewise recommendations for roofs focus on using the highest-rated materials, maintaining the roof and gutters to be free of debris, and sealing all potential entry points for wind-blown embers. The roof is one of the most vulnerable parts of a home during a wildfire because embers can travel for miles and ignite flammable roofing material.
Roofing materials
Select a roof with a Class A fire rating, the most fire-resistant classification. Class A roofs are effective against severe fire exposure and limit flame spread.
Build your roof or re-roof with fire-resistant materials. Here are the most effective Class A roofing materials:
Clay or concrete tiles: Naturally non-combustible and highly fire-resistant, though heavier than other materials.
Metal: Non-combustible materials such as aluminum, steel, or copper do not ignite when exposed to direct flame or embers.
Slate: A naturally fire-resistant stone that offers premium protection, though it is heavy and more expensive.
Fiberglass asphalt shingles: A popular, cost-effective option that features a fire-resistant core. Most asphalt shingles available have a Class A rating.
Synthetic composite shingles: Products designed to mimic the appearance of other materials, like wood, while providing enhanced fire resistance.
Roof structure
Fire-resistant underlayment: If installing a new roof, include a fire-resistant underlayment to add a critical layer of protection beneath the outer material.
Ongoing maintenance
Clean regularly: Keep roofs, gutters, and downspouts free of dead leaves, pine needles, and other flammable debris.
Remove overhanging branches: Prune tree limbs within 10 feet of your roof to reduce the risk of ignition from direct flame exposure.
Repair gaps: Replace or repair any loose or missing shingles or tiles to prevent embers from penetrating the roof covering. Block any spaces between the roof decking and covering to prevent ember intrusion.
Credit source: HWMO
Credit source: HWMO
Credit source: HWMO
Credit source: HWMO
Solar Panels
Wildfire safety recommendations for solar panels focus on regular clearance and maintenance to reduce ignition risk. The buildup of debris under solar panels can ignite and lead to roof ignition.
Maintain roof clearance: Research shows that increasing the gap height between roof-mounted panels and the roof surface can help prevent fire spread underneath the array.
Prevent debris buildup: Routinely clean under and around solar panels to remove combustible debris like leaves, pine needles, and animal nests that can accumulate and ignite.
Skylights
Firewise recommendations for skylights focus on installing Class A-rated materials, using glass instead of plastic, and implementing routine maintenance. The objective is to prevent embers from entering the home through the roof during a wildfire.
Material and installation
Opt for glass and aluminum: choose skylights made with glass and aluminum frames. Unlike plastic or acrylic domes, these materials are far less likely to melt, shatter, or allow embers to enter the home during a fire.
Choose tempered glass or laminated glass with a polyvinyl butyral (PVB) interlayer: Tempered glass is more resistant to heat and flame than laminated glass. However, under extreme heat, it can shatter. Laminated glass with a PVB interlayer provides better structural integrity. If the glass does break, the plastic interlayer holds the pieces together, keeping the barrier intact and delaying failure.
Ensure the product meets Class A burn brand requirements: The highest standard for fire resistance in roofing is a Class A rating.
Consider exterior screening: Install a 1/16-inch noncombustible, corrosion-resistant metal mesh screen over the skylight to help block embers.
Maintenance and operation
Clear vegetative debris: Regularly remove leaves, pine needles, and other vegetative debris that can accumulate on or around the skylight. Embers can easily ignite this material and lead to roof ignition.
Close all operable skylights: If an operable or vented skylight is left open, it can provide a direct entry point for embers. Close it immediately if a wildfire threatens.
Inspect and maintain materials: Ensure that the metal flashing around the skylight is in good condition and properly installed to prevent water leaks and protect against the spread of fire. Routinely check the seal to ensure embers cannot enter in the case of a wildfire. Consider replacing the skylight if it is single-pane, non-tempered glass.
Credit source: HWMO
Chimneys
Firewise Recommendations for chimneys include taking proactive measures to reduce wildfire risk, like installing a spark arrester, scheduling regular cleaning and inspection, and maintaining proper buffers.
Chimney maintenance and equipment
Install a spark arrester: A chimney cap with a mesh screen that has openings of 1/4 inch or smaller is essential to prevent hot embers from escaping and igniting flammable materials on your roof or in your yard.
Schedule regular inspections and cleaning: Hire a certified professional to inspect and clean your chimney and stovepipe at least once per year. Cleanings remove flammable creosote buildup, which is a major cause of chimney fires.
Burn proper materials: To minimize creosote, burn only well-seasoned, dry firewood with a moisture content of 15% or less. Avoid burning paper, cardboard, or chemical fire starters in your fireplace.
Close the damper: When the fireplace is not in use, close the damper to prevent embers from entering the home through the chimney during a wildfire event.
Building buffers around your chimney
Clear vegetation: Maintain a minimum 10-foot buffer around your chimney and stovepipe outlets. This buffer should include removing or pruning any tree branches or shrubs that are near or overhanging the roof.
Create a non-combustible zone: Ensure that all flammable materials, including firewood piles, are at least 30 feet away from the structure.
Building and renovation materials
Use fire-resistant materials: If you are building or renovating, use fire-rated chimney liners, masonry, and other non-combustible materials. Metal flues and properly sealed joints offer increased resistance to heat and flame.
Gutters
Firewise guidelines emphasize using non-combustible materials for gutters and covering them with metal guards to prevent the accumulation of flammable debris.
Consider replacing vinyl gutters with metal gutters (steel, aluminum, copper, or similar) if possible to prevent vinyl gutters from catching fire or melting during a wildfire event.
Routinely clean gutters to prevent flammable buildup from accumulating. Screen or enclose rain gutters with 1/8-inch or smaller metal mesh to prevent the accumulation of plant or other flammable debris.
Soffitts and Eaves
Firewise recommendations for soffits and eaves include design considerations, choosing non-combustible materials, performing regular maintenance, and sealing any gaps in this area.
Design Considerations
Minimal roof overhangs: If possible, design a home from the start with minimal or no overhangs to reduce the risk of trapping embers and hot gases.
Fire-rated soffits: If you have large roof overhangs, use soffits rated for at least a one-hour fire resistance and install flat, horizontal soffits.
Box in eaves: Enclosing open eaves and soffits with fire-resistant materials, like metal or non-combustible wood, prevents embers from collecting and entering the attic.
Choosing Non-Combustible Materials
Soffit and fascia: Choose non-combustible materials or fire-resistant options, such as fiber-cement board, stucco, or fire-retardant-treated wood.
Add fire-resistant layers: For very high fire-hazard areas, consider adding a layer of 5/8-inch fire-resistant gypsum board between existing and new soffit materials for enhanced fire resistance.
Regular Maintenance & Cleaning
Inspect frequently: Examine the fascia, soffits, and eaves for any openings or cracks that can let hot gases and embers into the attic. Pay particular attention to the areas where the rafters meet the roof assembly, including the roof, exterior walls, and fascia.
Seal gaps: Consider filling all gaps and cracks in the eaves with fireproof caulking or sealant to prevent ember entry.
Vents
Firewise recommendations for vents focus on screening to block embers and debris and keeping vents clean and clear to remove any trapped combustible materials. Vents on homes are particularly vulnerable to flying embers.
Specific Recommendations for Vents
Use 1/8-inch mesh screening: Install metal mesh screening with openings no larger than 1/8 inch on all exterior vents, including soffit, attic, and eave vents, to prevent embers from entering and igniting the structure. Do not use fiberglass or plastic mesh because they can melt and burn. Attic vents in eaves or cornices should be baffled or otherwise protected to prevent ember intrusion (mesh is not enough).
Clean vents regularly: Check and clean your vents at least twice a year to remove dead leaves, pine needles, and other debris that can accumulate and create a fire hazard.
Box-in areas under decks and lanai: Use wire mesh to screen or box in spaces under decks and lanai, which can trap flammable materials and embers, creating a fire risk.
DO NOT INSTALL SCREENS ON DRYER VENTS: To protect against dryer vent fires, ensure the vent duct is rigid metal, not plastic or foil, with a smooth interior surface to minimize lint buildup. The duct should be shorter, have fewer bends, and always terminate outdoors with a screen-free, backdraft damper-equipped hood. Finally, regularly clean the lint trap and the ductwork, and make sure the vent is clear of obstructions.
Exterior Walls
Firewise recommendations for exterior walls and siding include prioritizing noncombustible materials like stucco, fiber cement, and metal siding, especially in vulnerable areas like the base of the house.
To build for wildfire resilience, Firewise recommendations emphasize using proven ignition-resistant materials and designs that account for how wildfires actually damage homes.
Wall assembly design: For new construction, a one-hour wall design with an added fire-resistant layer can offer additional protection if using a vulnerable siding material.
No exterior sheathing required: Some advanced, two-sided flame block sheathing assemblies (such as UL Design No. V340) combine structural capacity and fire resistance, potentially eliminating a layer of exterior gypsum for a 1-hour wall rating.
Protective exterior cladding: Use ignition-resistant siding like stucco, brick, or fiber cement over the fire-rated wall assembly. If using metal cladding, install a layer of Type X gypsum underneath to minimize heat transfer.
Fire-resistant paint: If using more vulnerable materials, cover any exposed wood with a fire-resistant paint.
Underside protection: Completely enclose the underside of any overhangs or decks with noncombustible or fire-resistant materials, as these areas are vulnerable to trapped flames.
Noncombustible vertical zone: Ensure a six-inch noncombustible zone where siding meets the ground to stop embers from igniting the wall's base, even with noncombustible siding.
Windows
Heat from a wildland fire can cause windows to break even before the home ignites. It allows burning embers to enter and start internal fires. Single-pane and large windows are particularly vulnerable.
For Firewise standards, upgrade windows to dual-pane, tempered glass and use non-combustible metal frames to reduce breakage from radiant heat and embers. Limit the size of windows, especially those facing vegetation, and maintain an ember-resistant zone by clearing debris around them. Install fine-mesh screens on operable windows and add fire-resistant shutters or covers as an extra layer of protection.
Upgrade Your Windows and Frames
Dual-pane, tempered glass: Replace single-pane windows with dual-pane units, ensuring at least one pane is tempered glass, which is significantly more resistant to breaking from heat.
Non-combustible frames: Choose windows with non-combustible metal frames, as frames that melt can allow the window panel to fall out, creating an entry point for flames and embers.
Window Maintenance and Features
Fine mesh screens: Install 1/16-inch fine mesh screens on all operable windows to help catch embers and reduce heat exposure.
Fire-resistant shutters: Consider installing fire-resistant shutters or window covers for enhanced protection against direct flame contact and radiant heat.
Consider Your Home's Environment
Limit window size and placement: Reduce the size and number of windows, especially those that are large or facing areas with abundant vegetation, to minimize their exposure to radiant heat.
Maintain and build buffers: Create an "ember-resistant zone" around your home by removing all combustible materials, such as dry vegetation, debris, and woodpiles, from within 0-5 feet of windows.
Limit the number and size of windows: Incorporate this idea, especially for windows facing large vegetation areas, and use fire-resistant reflective films for extra defense against radiant heat.
Doors and Garages
To make doors more resistant to wildfire, Firewise recommendations focus on choosing fire-rated materials and properly sealing and maintaining the doors to prevent ember and heat penetration. These steps apply to all exterior doors, including the main entry and garage doors.
Door Material
Select materials that are non-combustible or fire-rated to provide a strong defense against flames and high temperatures.
Metal doors: A solid steel door with an insulated core is an excellent choice, as steel is non-combustible and can withstand extreme heat.
Solid-core wood doors: Wood is combustible, but a solid-core wood door that is at least 1-3/4 inches thick offers better resistance than a hollow-core version. Some fire-rated wood doors are manufactured with a mineral or fire-resistant core and a fire-rated veneer.
Fiberglass doors: Fire-rated fiberglass doors are also available and are more resilient to radiant heat than solid wood doors.
Door Hardware and Seals
Even a fire-rated door is only as effective as its hardware and seals, which can be vulnerable points for ember and smoke entry.
Frame and hardware: Use certified fire-rated frames, hinges, and positive latching mechanisms that are designed to resist fire. For example, NFPA 80 recommends using steel-bearing hinges for fire doors.
Intumescent seals: Line the edges of the door with intumescent seals. These seals expand dramatically when exposed to high heat, sealing the gaps between the door and the frame to block flames and smoke.
Weatherstripping: Install fire-resistant weatherstripping (such as silicone or metal) around all doors to create a tight seal and prevent embers from entering.
Bottom seal: Add a non-combustible door sweep or an automatic door bottom to prevent embers and smoke from blowing under the door.
Threshold: A metal or stone threshold can prevent embers from blowing in under the door.
Garage Doors
The large, exposed surface of a garage door and the vulnerability of the attached garage make it a critical area to address.
Insulated metal doors: Replace combustible garage doors with insulated metal garage doors.
Seals: Install a seal kit around the garage door to prevent ember intrusion into the garage space.
Door to the house: The door between the garage and the interior of the house must be a minimum 20-minute fire-rated door. It should also be solid wood (at least 1-3/8 inches thick) or solid/honeycomb-steel (at least 1-3/8 inches thick) and equipped with a self-latching and self-closing device.
Glass panels
Glass in doors can be a weak point under intense radiant heat.
Multilayered tempered glass: Use doors with multilayered tempered glass to make them more resistant to heat and cracking.
Non-combustible shutters: For added protection during a fire, install fire-resistant shutters on glass doors.
Maintenance and Surrounding Area
Proper maintenance and vegetation management are essential for all structural hardening measures.
Tools: Have a fire extinguisher and tools such as a shovel, rake, bucket, and hoe available for fire emergencies.
Storage: Store all combustibles and flammable liquids away from ignition sources.
Maintain seals and hardware: Regularly inspect seals, hinges, and other hardware to ensure they are in good working order and have not been damaged.
Keep clear of combustibles: Maintain a 0–5 foot "ember-resistant" zone around doors and the entryway. This area should be free of flammable vegetation and mulch.
Decks, Lanai or Patio Covers
To reduce wildfire risks for deck, lanai, and patio covers, Firewise recommendations focus on using non-combustible materials, ensuring proper installation and separation from the house, and regular maintenance to remove debris.
Firewise Materials for Deck, Lanai, and Patio Covers
Choosing fire-resistant materials is a critical part of hardening your home against wildfires.
Aluminum: A non-combustible material that is highly resistant to fire. It is durable and a popular choice for patio covers.
Concrete and masonry: Patios and pavers made of concrete, stone, or brick are non-combustible and create a fire-safe zone around your home. Lightweight, autoclaved aerated concrete (AAC) blocks are also used for decking in covered areas and offer a high fire rating.
Class A-rated composite or PVC: While not fireproof, certain high-density composite and advanced PVC deck boards are engineered to resist ignition and slow flame spread when exposed to embers. Look for products with a Class A flame-spread rating and Wildland Urban Interface (WUI) compliance. The decking surface must be ignition-resistant if it’s within 10 feet of the home.
Fire-retardant-treated (FRT) wood: Some wood products are pressure-treated with chemicals to resist ignition and flame spread. These products require periodic reapplication of treatment to maintain effectiveness.
Heavy timber: Thick sections of wood, at least 3 to 4 inches thick, are more resistant to fire than thinner lumber.
Construction and Installation Best Practices
The design and build of decks and covers are as important as the materials used.
Enclose the under-deck area: To prevent embers and debris from accumulating, enclose the space under elevated decks. Use non-combustible materials like cement board, brick, or a metal mesh screen with openings no larger than 1/8 inch.
Mind the gap at the house: The connection point between the deck and your home is a vulnerable spot for ember intrusion. Install metal flashing at this junction to seal the gap.
Isolate combustible structures: Detach combustible features like wood fencing from your deck and house. For fences attached to a home, use a metal or masonry barrier to break the connection.
Protect overhanging structures: For patio covers or other structures that overhang, install fire-resistant coverings on the underside to protect the framework.
Install ember-resistant vents: If the area under your deck needs ventilation, use ember-resistant vents with a fine metal mesh.
Maintenance and Landscaping
Keeping your deck and patio clear of fuel is a critical, ongoing task.
Remove combustible debris: Regularly sweep leaves, pine needles, and other flammable debris from the surface and between deck boards. Clear all vegetation and debris from the area underneath the deck.
Use non-combustible ground cover: For landscaping within 5 feet of the deck, use non-flammable ground covers like rocks, gravel, or pavers instead of wood mulch.
Manage nearby vegetation: Build a buffer by clearing combustible vegetation away from the deck and cutting back tree branches at least 10 feet from the structure.
Store flammable items safely: Move all combustible items, including firewood, propane tanks, and patio furniture cushions, at least 30 feet from your home and deck during high-risk fire conditions (or store flammable furniture and cushions inside the home).
Fencing and Gates
Fire-safe fencing uses noncombustible materials and designs that prevent ember accumulation, such as woven wire, chain link, or ornamental iron with open-frame construction. Avoid combustible materials like wood fences with privacy slats, and keep all fencing clear of vegetative debris and mulch to prevent fire from spreading to your home. Noncombustible sections of fencing should extend at least five feet from the building to act as a firebreak and prevent a “wicking effect” of flame to the home or structure, and fences should have adequate spacing to prevent fuel buildup.
Materials to Use
Noncombustible & metal fences: Woven wire, heavy-gauge chain link (with an open weave), ornamental iron, steel, aluminum, and brick or stone fences are excellent choices because they don't burn and prevent ember traps.
Lattice fencing: Choose open-style lattice, which promotes airflow, rather than solid panels, which can trap embers.
Designs to Avoid
Privacy fences: Solid wood, wood-composite, and privacy-slatted fences are high-risk because they can accumulate debris and facilitate fire spread.
Parallel fences: Placing fences parallel to each other creates hazardous fuel corridors that are difficult to maintain and should be avoided.
Entrances with fuel accumulation: Avoid intricate designs with many horizontal supports where embers can collect.
Maintenance and Placement
Clear debris: Regularly clear leaves, pine needles, and twigs from the base of your fence and the surrounding area to reduce fuel.
Use a noncombustible barrier: For the first five feet of a fence connecting to your home, use a noncombustible section, such as a masonry or metal barrier, to create a firebreak. If a combustible gate connects to the structure, leave it open during wildfire conditions.
Maintain airflow: Ensure your fence design allows for good airflow to prevent wind-blown embers from accumulating.
Spacing: Maintain adequate spacing between fences and other combustible materials, including neighboring properties and the residence itself, to limit fire spread.
Driveways and Access Roads
Driveways should be designed to allow fire and emergency vehicles and equipment to reach your house.
Minimum road width: At least 20 feet of unobstructed width. Exception for single-family homes: The width can be reduced to a minimum of 15 feet if an area at least 20 feet wide is provided within 150 feet of the home.
Vertical clearance: Trim trees and shrubs overhanging the road to a minimum of 13-1/2 feet to allow emergency vehicles to pass.
Dead-end roads: For roads exceeding 150 feet in length, an approved turnaround must be provided. For single-family homes, a turnaround is required if the dead-end road is longer than 250 feet.
Ensure that all gates open inward and are wide enough to accommodate emergency equipment.
Local rules should be checked for variations, as individual counties may adopt amendments to the state fire code.
Home Site and Yard
Ensure you have at least a 100-foot radius of thinned, well-maintained, or cleared vegetation around your home. Note that even more clearance may be needed for homes in severe hazard areas. This means looking past what you own to determine the impact a common slope or neighbors’ yard will have on your property during a wildland fire.
Cut dry weeds and grass before noon when temperatures are cooler to reduce the chance of sparking a fire.
Landscape with fire-resistant plants that have a high moisture content and are low-growing.
Keep woodpiles, propane tanks, and combustible materials away from your home and other structures such as garages, barns, and sheds.
Ensure that trees are far away from power lines.
Water Supply
Have multiple garden hoses that are long enough to reach any area of your home and other structures on your property.
If you have a pool or well, consider a pump.
If your catchment tank is designated for firewater storage, contact your local fire department to confirm that the connections meet their specifications. This step ensures fire suppression responders have the proper hookups for emergency use.
Here are the main fire departments in Hawaiʻi:
Honolulu Fire Department (HFD): Serves the entire island of Oʻahu.
Maui Fire Department (MFD): Also known as Maui Fire Rescue, serves the County of Maui.
Hawaiʻi Fire Department (HFD): Serves the County of Hawaiʻi (the island of Hawaiʻi).
Kauai Fire Department (KFD): Serves the County of Kauaʻi.
Address
Make sure your address is clearly visible from the road (install lighting for night visibility). Preferably, install reflective address signs with 4" tall, 1/2" wide numbers.
Inside the Home
Keep working fire extinguishers on hand.
Install smoke alarms on each level of your home and near bedrooms.
Test smoke alarms monthly and change the batteries twice a year.
Backup Power and Generators
Hawaiian Electric has adopted the Public Safety Power Shutoff (PSPS) program to help prevent wildfires during certain conditions, such as hot, windy weather in areas where dry vegetation surrounds electrical equipment.
Prepare for power outages before wildfires and other emergencies. We recommend having:
Battery-powered AM/FM/weather radio
Some models can be charged via built-in solar panels or hand cranks for continued use during power outages.
NOAA Weather Radio broadcasts National Weather Service warnings, watches, forecasts, and other hazard information all day. The radio program broadcasts on frequencies 162.400 (channel 1), 162.450 (channel 3), 162.500 (channel 6), and 162.550 (channel 7) in the Hawaiian Islands.
2. Battery-powered lanterns or flashlights
Some models can be charged via built-in solar panels or are disposable battery-dependent; in that case, be sure to have a stockpile of D, C, AA, AAA, and 9-volt batteries.
Other backup power sources may include the following:
Battery-powered or portable cell phone chargers
Portable Power Stations
Power Walls, such as Tesla batteries
Battery backups for garage door openers
Generators
DEFENSIBLE SPACE
Defensible space is the buffer zone you create between a structure and the wildland, grass, or vegetation that surrounds it. Maintaining this space helps to slow or stop the spread of wildfire and reduces the chances of a home igniting from direct flames or wind-blown embers. Crucially, a well-maintained defensible space provides a safe area for firefighters to work and defend your property.
10 Key Recommendations for Wildfire Preparedness
Establish a Non-Combustible Zone (0–5 feet): Clear this immediate area around the home, decks, and attachments of all flammable materials, including wood mulch, shrubs, firewood, and dried debris, replacing them with rock, gravel, or concrete.
Clear Roofs and Gutters: Regularly remove all leaves, pine needles, and debris from roofs, rain gutters, and under decks, as these are prime locations for wind-blown embers to ignite.
Manage Lawn and Grass in Zone 1 (5–30 feet): Keep all grass and weeds in the intermediate zone mowed to a maximum height of four inches to reduce the spread and intensity of surface fires.
Eliminate "Ladder Fuels": Remove any vegetation that allows fire to climb from the ground into tree canopies (e.g., small shrubs or dead branches beneath trees). Prune tree limbs up to at least 6 to 10 feet from the ground or no more than 1/3 the height of the plant.
Create Horizontal Spacing (5–100+ feet): Ensure adequate horizontal separation between trees and shrub clumps so fire cannot easily jump from one to the next, increasing spacing as the slope or fuel load increases.
Relocate Flammable Storage: Move all stacked firewood, lumber, and propane tanks a minimum of 30 feet away from the house, clearing flammable vegetation from around them for at least 10 feet.
Address Outbuildings and Fences: Ensure sheds, detached garages, and dog houses have a clear zone of at least 10 feet around them, and use non-combustible material for the first 5 feet of any fencing attached to the home.
Maintain Vertical Clearance: Trim tree branches that overhang or are within 10 feet of the roof, chimney, stovepipe, smoker shed, or imu.
Utilize Hardscapes to Break Fuel Paths: Install non-combustible features like concrete walkways, stone patios, gravel driveways, rock catchments, or retaining walls (hardscapes) to create ribbons of material that completely interrupt the continuity of vegetation. These features function as crucial fuelbreaks that prevent surface fires from creeping toward the home.
Employ Island Planting: Instead of continuous beds, group low-flammability shrubs and plants in small, well-spaced "islands." Use non-combustible materials (like gravel or stone) to provide at least three times the height of the shrub in clear space between these islands. This strategy ensures fire remains on the ground and cannot easily move horizontally across the yard.
FIREWISE LANDSCAPING
What is Firewise Landscaping or “Firescaping?”
Firewise landscaping builds buffers (spacing) by managing vegetation and landscaping features around a home to reduce the risk of wildfire ignition and spread. It involves creating several zones of decreasing fuel around your home, using fire-resistant plants, maintaining clear spaces between plants and structures, and clearing away dead plant material. The goal is to slow fire and prevent embers from reaching and igniting the home.
Choose the Right Tree
Tree and Plant Selection: Choose the right plants and trees for your yard.
The right trees can help buffer against a fire rather than being fire hazards.
Fires are fueled by dried grasses, woody debris, and dried leaves.
Use native and canoe plants that are specially adapted to local conditions and require less water to keep green.
When planting a seedling, ensure it has space to mature and grow.
Avoid invasive fire-promoting plants and trees like paperbark tea tree, Formosan koa, Podocarpus, and lantana.
Choose the Right Place
Site selection: Choose the right place for trees in your yard.
Allow for space between the tree canopy and your home. Branches should not touch the home.
Create a “fire-free” area within 5 feet of your home using gravel, cinder, etc., or well-hydrated plants.
Keep maximum distance between tree clusters/canopies to reduce the risk of wildfire spreading between vegetation.
Choose the Right Care
Site selection: Choose the right care and maintenance for your plants.
Regularly remove dried grasses, woody debris, and dried leaves.
Regularly trim branches away from your home and other trees.
Pruning to allow light and air between branches can promote tree health and resilience to pests.
Keep plants and trees well-hydrated and healthy. Native and drought-resistant plants tend to require less water and upkeep.
Tips for Firewise Landscaping (Planting Pono)
The following resources will help you determine which plants to include or remove from your yard.
Canoe Plants (Nā Mea Kanu Waʻa) - 23 important plants brought across the Pacific by the first people who arrived in Hawaiʻi around 1,500 years ago that are known today as canoe plants.
Coastal Plants for Creating Green Breaks - A resource that provides information and options for plant species that can replace fire-prone vegetation and thereby reduce fire risk.
Go Native Plants - A database of 216 native Hawaiian and Polynesian-introduced “canoe” plants, which includes additional landscaping, ethnobotanical, and ecological information.
Hawaiʻi Pacific Weed Fire Risk Assessment - A tool that assesses 360+ plant species for their fire-promoting traits and provides a computer model-generated fire risk score for each plant species.
Hawaiʻi Pacific Weed Risk Assessment - A vetting process for predicting if a plant will become invasive.
Pacific Islands SelecTree - A guide to search for trees by their common or scientific name.
Plant Pono - A website intended to guide all who garden to make “Pono planting” choices.
Top 10 Fire-Resistant Plants for Hawaiʻi - An article that spotlights 10 pono plants to use in your green firebreak.
Resource for Plant Selection
Xeriscaping - Hawaiʻi Style
Creating a wildfire-resilient home does not necessarily mean eliminating the presence of greenery on your property. You can still landscape around your home to make it fire-safe without compromising beauty and aesthetics. By planting native, drought-tolerant plants (xeriscaping) around your home, you can:
Protect your home from wildland fire ignition and spread
Beautify your property with native plants
Decrease the maintenance needs of your landscaping
Mālama ʻĀina by perpetuating important natural and cultural resources
For the drier areas of Hawaiʻi, consider that native dryland plants are specially adapted to local conditions and require less upkeep, water, and fire maintenance, saving you a great deal of time, money, and resources. Non-native, lush plants often drop hazardous debris and can become fire-prone in drought conditions.
Watch Out for Exotic Vegetation
Non-native trees, such as ironwood (pictured), constantly drop needles, leaves, branches, and other debris, so it’s best to stay on top of removing them from the ground before the pile becomes a major project. Consider reforesting these areas with native trees that don’t drop large amounts of debris.
Invasive grasses such as guinea and fountain grass grow rapidly when unmanaged and can dry out very quickly, creating a major fire hazard. Weed them often and consider replanting with low-lying, drought-tolerant, native ground cover.
